Shallow-water wave equations — bathymetry, shoaling, and wave speed v = √(gh)
The shallow-water wave equation: ∂²h/∂t² = c²∇²h, where c = √(gH) depends on local depth H.
Click to create disturbances. The shallow continental shelf slows and amplifies waves — this is why tsunamis barely perceptible in deep ocean become devastating walls of water at shore.